Patedepollo

The shower in your mobile home may be a fixed wall type or the flexible variety. In either case, the enjoyment and utility of showering depend on you keeping the shower head clean inside and out.
Periodically remove the spreader from the shower head and scrub it with an old toothbrush. Grit, corrosion, and mineral deposits from the water build up inside, clogging the ports. Clean the ports in
sieve-type shower head with a round wood toothpick.
Look for pressure adjustments on the shower head. On some, tightening or loosening the spreader changes the pressure. Others may have an adjustment lever on the shower head. Make sure the
adjustment is free and easy to turn.
Because they have so many interchangeable accessories and multiple uses, flexible shower heads have grown popular. You can buy the fancy accessories from any good plumbing supplier.
The flexible outfits are easy to clean and maintain. To change shower heads, simply unscrew the coupling nut between the shower head and the flexible hose. Remove the attachment and attach
new one. To replace the hose, unscrew its couplers at the shower head and at the faucet base and insert a new flex tubing.

Modern mobile homes largely use a black pipe called ABS-DWV for drains. ABS stands for Acrylonitrile Butadiene-Styrene. It makes into a heavy-duty plastic drain-waste-vent (DWV) pipe which does not rust, rot, or corrode.
ABS pipe is durable, but damage occurs occasionally. When it does, even a novice can repair it—if the novice knows how. It takes a carpenter’s rule, trouble light, china marker, bucket, fine-tooth hacksaw, sandpaper, rags, ABS solvent cement, a few bricks or wood blocks, plus of course replacements for the damaged fittings and/or pipe.
With trouble in hand, mark cutting lines just beyond the damaged section with a china marker. Measure the length and diameter of pipe being removed. In a straight drain the new section must be not more than 1/4 inch shorter than the section it’s replacing; couplings add only a tiny fraction to length. With Ys and Ls, allow for ¾ inch of pipe to slide into the new fitting.
Support the undamaged pipe beyond the cutting lines. Set a bucket to catch any sewage. Saw through the old drain at the cutting lines. Sand off any roughness.
To test the fit, slip two dry couplings onto the new pipe. Align the new pipe, and slide a coupling out over each end. The couplings should fit easily but snugly, holding the new section in the drain. Disassemble the new parts. Retrim any that doesn’t fit right.
Apply ABS cement to one end of the replacement pipe and to the inside of one coupler. Slip the pipe into the coupler and give the pipe a quarter-turn to distribute the cement. Do the same with the other coupler at the opposite end of the new pipe.
Now apply ABS cement to the inside of both couplings and to the outside of both drain pipe ends. Slip one coupler onto one drain pipe. Then pry back the other drain end and slip it into the other coupler. Twist the new pipe and couplers a quarter-turn. The new pipe should bond permanently in a few minutes.

Toilets bring you a variety of repair difficulties, ranging from simple mechanical malfunctions to toys flushed into the drain.
When you see the bowl getting ready to overflow, you’re too late to stop it. Just roll up. the rugs. In most mobile homes, to shut off the water to the toilet tank, you must close the main valve outside. Before you turn it off, however, fill at least one bucket with water. You may need that during repairs.
Do not pour a drain cleaner into the bowl at this stage. Clearing a stoppage requires tools and work in the bowl. Caustics could get splashed onto your skin or eyes, if the water suddenly surged down the drain.
Try a plunger first to release the blockage. If the overfill has slowly seeped down the drain, pour just enough water into the bowl to cover the plunger and produce suction. Set the plunger over the toilet drain and pump it. After several good sloshing, release the plunger. If the water drains fast and freely, you’ve dislodged the block. If water still drains sluggishly, and without its natural sucking sound, pump the plunger some more.
If the plunger can’t free the stoppage, try a short auger or plumber’s snake. If that fails, call a plumber.

Leaks occur in the faucet assembly at the base of the spout. This leak is not a drip-drip-drip. It only occurs when the faucets are turned on, but it usually dribbles water all over the sink.
Turn off the faucets. Unscrew the ring that holds the spout at its base. Use Channellock pliers on stubborn ones, but with a cloth to keep the pliers’ teeth from scarring the chrome. Lift out the spout. A leak usually is caused by a worn 0-ring. Replace it. Before you reattach the spout to the faucet assembly, inspect its mounting for corrosion. Clean it away with fine steel wool. Reassemble the spout.
When a new 0-ring does not stop the leak, replace the old spout with a new one.
Leaks also occur around the open end of the spout, at the filter screen or the aerator. These also become clogged with grit and sediment, and may let the water only dribble out, even with the faucets full on. Take the screen off, or the aerator apart. Rinse it in clear water, and reassemble.
If leaking persists, buy a new screen or aerator at a hardware store or building-supply house. Check the screw threads. If they’re shot, you’ll need a whole new spout. Do not use pipe dope on them; it clogs up an aerator faster than normal grit does. Besides, you need to remove an aerator from time to time for routine cleaning.
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Leaky faucets not only are maddening, they skyrocket your water bill. In a single day, more water can be wasted by one leaky faucet than you’d normally use. It’s foolish not to make this simple repair immediately. All you need is a screwdriver (probably Phillips), an open-end wrench, a faucet reamer, and replacement washers. Before you buy washers, remove the faucet handle and stem to discover the type of washer needed. Some newer models take 0- rings.
Turn off the water at the main valve. Turn on the leaky faucet and let the line drain. Loosen the screw in the center of the faucet handle. If that screw is hidden under a decorative cap, carefully pry off the cap with a screwdriver.
Lift off the handle. Corroded handles may require some force to remove. If you must pry with a wrench or screwdriver, cover the handle and the chrome base with thick masking tape or a towel to prevent scratching.
Loosen the stem nut with an open-end or adjustable wrench. Lift the stem from the faucet assembly. That gives you access to the washers. Look for a thin black 0-ring around the stem or a black neoprene washer attached to the bottom of the stem by a screw. Remove the old washer or 0-ring and go buy a new one just like it.
Before you restore the stem to the faucet assembly, inspect the metal faucet seat (down in the fixture) for corrosion. Clean out any you find with a faucet reamer. Failure to do this results in another leak before long.
Reassemble the faucet. Turn on the water. Open the faucet and bleed air from the water lines until water flows smoothly.

Plumbing fixtures demand more repairs than pipes. Take pop-up sink stoppers. Even slightly out of adjustment, they leak. You can buy a rubber plug more easily than repair the stopper. Measure across the mouth of the open drain, and buy a plug to fit. However, that’s not the real answer.
Pop-up drain stoppers incur several problems. They become clogged with hair, rods warp or come loose, and the stopper gets bent so the drain won’t seal. To make repairs, first lift the stopper itself upward and twist to release it. Scrape off or untangle any collected debris. Clean the drain with a strong cleaner such as Drano. Scrape the stopper lip, and the drain edge where it fits, with fine steel wool.
Reverse the removal steps to replace the stopper. Try the stopper handle. If the stopper still doesn’t seal, pull it out, rotate it a half-turn, and reseat it.
For persistent leaking, get under the fixture. With a wrench, tighten. the stopper-lever assembly where it connects to the drain. If it’s corroded, clean it. Reseal it with new pipe dope if the old dope looks rotten; otherwise, leaks occur at the trap.
One arm of the lever assembly has either several notches or a threaded adjustment. Slip the arm rod into another notch (or turn the adjustment) until you find a position that seals the drain. Take out a bent plunger by backing out the screw that locks it into the assembly. Try a plumbing-supply shop for a replacement.
Lubricate the shaft of a balky plunger with silicone spray. That might free it up enough that it can seal properly and keep water in the sink (for at least a half-hour).